Saturday 30 July 2011

Temperature Controller

One of my other hobbies is home-brew beer. However, here in Blackwater, it gets hot, and controlling the temperature of the fermenter is very difficult. The best I've been able to do is wrap a wet towel around the fermenter, and have the end of the towel in a bucket of water. As the water evaporates, it keeps the fermenter cool. This works moderately well, but it only maintains a temperature of about 24 degrees, and requires frequent checks.

To make life easier, a lot of home brewers use a dedicated fridge. I was lucky enough to get an old upright freezer for free from a friend. To then use it for home-brewing I just needed a temperature controller to keep the fridge at my ideal fermenting temperature.

There are no fully-built temperature controllers available which just plug in-line to the fridge and control its temperature. (Which seems strange, you think there'd be a market for it). However, there's plenty you can buy which needs to be wired up. Since I'm stepping up into the world of physical computing with the Prusa, I thought it'd be a good small project to start with.

There's heaps of temperature controllers on eBay, that look like this:

Willhi temperature controller

So I picked one up. Unknown to me at the time, there's actually two types of temperature controllers. Ones that do heating OR cooling, or ones that do heating AND cooling. They look almost identical, and sell for the same price. I bought the OR controller, thinking I was buying the AND controller. I thought the AND controller would be more useful, since you could then wrap a heat belt around the fermenter, while its in the fridge. Then, no matter if the temperature was hot or cold, the fermenter would then stay at a constant temperature.

To wire these up, I bought some cheap $3 extension cords from Bunnings, to cut up and wire inline. A problem with these controllers is that they have exposed 240v connectors at the back. Not good from a safety perspective.

Exposed 240v connections.

So I bought a hobby box and some cable glands to put the controller in. Holes then needed to be cut into the box. This was the hardest part of the operation. I needed a 70mm by 32mm hole, and three 19mm holes in the back. After more than an hour of drilling and sawing, I could immediately see why Dremel tools are so popular. I wasn't able to finish it that day, as my biggest drill bit was 12mm. I had to go borrow a Unibit from a guy at work. The end result:

Front of box

Rear of box 

A bit rough around the edges but pretty good. The edges don't worry me, as they'll be hidden behind the faceplate. I then fitted the controller inside it, and wired it up, as I thought it should be, judging from the text on the top of the controller.

The wired up controller - NOTE: This is wired up completely wrong!

 NOTE: This is wired up completely wrong!

The wiring was a bit tight inside the box, but not too much of a cause for concern.

 Box all ready to go

After I got to this stage, I plugged it in, (just the inlet power only) to give it a quick test. It all looked good, but it was operating in heating mode, not cooling mode. I fiddled with the buttons, but I couldn't figure out how to put it into cooling mode, nor set the other features (compressor cooldown time, temperature deviation allowed, etc.)

At this point, I realised that there were two different types of temperature controllers, and that I had got the lesser model. Oh well, having the heater unit simultaneous with the cooling would only be useful two me for a couple of weeks per year. If I really want to go that way, I can just switch controller over every morning and afternoon.

I wrote off to the ebay seller, hoping to get a pdf manual from them. After shooting the email off, I had a bit of a look amongst the other ebay auctions, to see if they had some of the manual text in there. In one of the auctions for the better controller, I saw a manual which said that you need to hold down the 'set' button to access the other settings. I tried it with my controller, and it worked! I was all good to go, or so I thought.

A day later, I got an email back from the ebay seller, with the manual in it. Included in the manual was a wiring diagram, and I had it wrongly wired it up. One of the leads was meant to go direct from input to output, and another was meant to be wired in series with the switch. Fortunately, it was easy to change, I just had to loosen off the glands, and reconnect the cables.

Once it was wired-up again, I took it to work, to have the sparky give it a look over, and compare it to the wiring diagram. He gave it his thumbs-up, so I bought it home and plugged it in.


The working controller


A great thing with this setup is that I'll be able to use it to make Lager beer (which has a much lower fermenting temperature, never achievable with temperatures here), as well as put it properly through the lagering process. I think I'll give that a try next winter, when the outside temperatures mean that the fridge gets too cold for ale yeast. So instead of using a heater element, I'll just use colder yeast.


Update:
Since there's been some interest in this controller, and it's manual, I've PDF'd it and uploaded it. You can find it here.

13 comments:

  1. Hello David,

    My name's Dave too. -- While poking around on the net I came across your article on using a digital controller to build a fermenter-temp control system. Turns out that's exactly my aim as well. And I too also found a variety of relatively inexpensive dig. controllers on ebay. After zeroing in on a suitable choice for a controller, finally concluded the WILLHI is perhaps the best all-round unit for my own purposes of home-brewing Sake. I too acquired a nearly-free freezer to use as my climate-controlled brewing environment. Using a dedicated freezer is pretty much an absolute necessity where I live (at least for a good part of the year). I'm not sure where 'Blackwater' is (Queensland, Arizona, New Mexico ??) ... but here in Central Texas when we say it's been a little 'Hot' this year...we really MEAN it's been 'HOTTER Than HELL!!'

    The WILLHI looks as convenient to use (or slightly better perhaps) than others for controlling a refig/freezer. I'm already aware of the difference between the single-control vs. dual control units. But as you point out, the dual output controllers allow for both heating & cooling in order to better achieve stability for our desired brew temps. The one thing I'm still researching however, is how to best integrate such a digital control system for refined temperature maintenance WHILE STILL ALLOWING for the proper operation and functioning of the original freezer's defrost-cycle. Not sure of you're knowledge of the typical defrost controls on a freezer.. but my plan is to implement a 3rd SSR (relay) BUT use one that is designed to be NORMALLY-CLOSED. By inserting such a relay between the freezer's factory cycling-timer and the power source used for BOTH compressor & heater SSR's, this ensures that both of those devices are temporarily disabled for the duration of the (relatively short) defrost cycle.

    Anyway.. cheers & happy Brewing !!

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  2. I hadn't really considered the necessity of controlling the cyclical defrost. I don't think it'll be a problem for my application, since the fermenting temperature for beer is so much higher than the temperature at which it'd start to frost out at. I'm not sure at what temperature sake brewing is done at, so it might be more of an issue with you.

    Your suggestion sounds like a pretty good one, let me know if it works out. Good luck with the sake brewing!

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  3. Hi David - have just done the exact same thing but in my case I am using my slow cooker to act as a Sous Vide Waterbath with this kit. I seem to have mislayed any paperwork I had - is there any chance you could pass some onto me please - ie instructions...mine says EEEEEE when I power it on so am a bit worried its mashed...
    Tim

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  4. Hi Tim,
    I've uploaded the manual for you. You can find a link on back in the main article, at the bottom. I hope it helps.

    ReplyDelete
  5. David,

    Hello! My name's Lee, I'm a homebrewer and magician in Japan who stumbled across your blog while trying to find wiring diagrams for the Willhi WH7016C.

    Thanks for the excellent post and .pdf file, but I wonder if you might be able to post (or e-mail?) more detailed wiring pics.

    Looking at the manual, I'm not exactly sure what "LOAD" means - would that be the device (i.e. Freezer) being controlled?

    Apologies and thanks in advance for troubling you with the question/request, but since you seem to know what you're talking about, I thought I'd trust you. :D

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  6. >>Looking at the manual, I'm not exactly sure what "LOAD" means - would that be the device (i.e. Freezer) being controlled?

    D'oh. Nevermind. Answer was hidden in plain sight.

    Brilliant blog you've got here, by the way. Thoroughly enjoyed reading it!

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  7. Can u post a pic or drawing of the wiring tring to hook mine up but im lost got the same one

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  8. The manual needs to be rewritten by a native English speaker; when 'in' and 'on' are used arbitrarily it leads to difficulties, at least for me. Now I have an annotated version.
    I am using the unit to monitor furnace heated water. I want to know when it exceeds a set temperature (say, HS = 88C). OK, alarm is useful, so when the threshold set temperature is matched it flashes 'H' and sounds off. But then when the temperature drops back across this same some value when cooling (curiously, it is not 88C but a few degrees lower) the alarm sounds again (and this I do not want) and flashes 'C'. This is when the setting is on 'H'. How do I turn the alarm off when dropping back across the set temperature? Any help welcomed.

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  9. Hi David

    Just ordered one of these for same use, and thought I understood from the wiring diagram how I was going to proceed, but then I saw your two 3 pin 240 female sockets. I think the fridge is plugged into the one connected near the 1/2 terminals, but from the diagram I dont understand what the other one is near the 7/8.

    Could you please clarify this?

    Thanks Stuart

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  10. hey dave,

    i have a need to keep a tub of water at about 70f. because the water temperature will always rise, i need to know which kind of controller do i need heating AND cooling -or- heating OR cooling...
    does it matter.

    i plan on using the controller to open a water valve solenoid when the temperature rises above 70f. i know a furnace thermostat set at 70f will turn on heat at 69.6f and then off at 70.4f...will this operate in the same manor ?

    thanks, doug
    517-974-8592

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi,
      Since you only want to do one task (cooling), and control a single item (solenoid), and heating OR cooling temperature controller would do the job for you.

      The controller I've used in my example does work like to suggest, doesn't have the accuracy that you've used in your example. At best, it can do 1 degree increments. So if you set it at 70 degrees with a one degree variance, it will turn on at 71 degrees, then back off at 70 degrees.

      However there's lots of temperature controllers on Amazon / ebay that are capable of much finer control - look up 'PID temperature controller'.

      Delete
  11. Hi David,

    What is the brand and type of the box for the build-in?

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  12. It's just a no-name junction box that I picked up in the electrical store where I got the glands and other bits. If you go a quick search on Amazon for 'junction box', a lot of similar boxes will show up.

    ReplyDelete